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When pants taper toward the ankle, the hem needs to follow that narrowing so the edge lies smoothly around the leg and shoe. Cutting the hem diagonally in an inverted V notch removes fabric where the leg is smallest, giving the bottom edge a shape that hugs the leg without bunching or creating bulk. This shape helps the hem sit flat and maintain a clean line along the leg.

Cutting straight across would leave excess fabric at the bottom to ease in, which can cause a bulky, uneven hem. Cutting along a seam line would interfere with existing seams and can weaken the finish. A zigzag pattern doesn’t address the fit around the ankle and would look irregular.